Version 2, Mid-length Headers is an improvement on one of our most popular and successful modifications for the B6-B7 S4 with the 4.2L 40v V8. These re-designed headers are a well-rounded performance upgrade that will net gains to all ranges of B6-B7 S4s with very little compromise. This includes cars with a stock motor and bolt-on modifications to fully built motors with superchargers running high boost.

new headers are a mid-length style header with a larger primary runner size. Generally, long-tube headers make more torque, and short-tube headers make more horsepower. Mid-length headers bring you the benefits of both. The larger primary sizes open up the motor more leaving room for growth with supercharger kits, built motors, and more boost. Back in 2008 when we first came out with the headers, long tubes with smaller primaries were the way to go - we didn't have our upgraded intake manifold yet, the exhaust systems for the platform were still small, and our tuning for the B6-B7 S4 4.2L V8 was still evolving. Once we came out with our upgraded intake manifold, we found that the OEM dual-runner design was able to give the motor a lot of torque. Then, we started to build the motors to handle more power and more boost and once we did this, we found that our headers from 2008 were corking the motor.

PARTS INCLUDED:
- 1x Stainless steel, driver side header assembly with v-banded flange
- 1x Stainless steel, passenger side header assembly with v-banded flange
- 1x Stainless steel, driver side downpipe with v-band connection
- 1x Stainless steel, passenger side downpipe with v-band connection
- 2x V-band clamps for header to mid-pipe connection

PARTS REQUIRED
- 2x OEM exhaust manifold gaskets
- 3x OEM exhaust manifold studs (to replace the 3 bolts removed)
- 3x OEM Exhaust manifold nuts (to replace the 3 bolts remove

The engine MUST be lowered substantially or removed from the vehicle to install these headers.
- Our headers have primary oxygen (O2) sensor bungs that are close to the stock location but end up pointing the sensors in a different direction. When routing the O2 sensors it is VERY important you secure the wires so they do not rub on anything. Specifically, make sure that the sensors are clear of the shift linkage on the driver side of the transmission and that they aren't close to the exhaust pipes so they do not burn through. Zip ties work really well for securing the sensor wires.
- When removing your O2 sensors from your stock manifolds and downpipes, it is very helpful to label the sensors to note which sensor is for the primary versus secondary location and the driver versus passenger side. The O2 sensors must be installed into the same location they were removed from.
- Once you install our additional studs you will have studs and nuts for ALL of the mounting holes. Torque all nuts on the cylinder head to header flange mounting studs to 25Nm or 19ftlb.
- It can be difficult to get to the lower nuts on the headers so you will need to get to those first and use tools like crow's feet and Gearwrench box end wrenches. Once the headers are fully secured and tightened, you can re-install the motor mounts.
- The alternator may have to be removed to install the headers in order to gain access to certain nuts. Some cars may require the alternator coolant pipe bent slightly for additional clearance.
- It is HIGHLY recommended to wrap the headers in the area where the stock manifolds were located to keep heat from the factory wiring, motor mounts, alternator, and coolant pipes. You should only have to go about 1 foot at most past the end of the motor since the factory downpipes were not shielded and our headers travel along the same path.